Great stuff and well done 
Worth a try
If it does work I’ll probably try and put a sticker to mark the sweet spot. I’m not sure how amused my passengers will be if I take too long rubbing my hand all over my car door…
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“what? you have to pet it to get it in the mood before a drive…”
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woohoo hell yea bud nice going!
now that you know it will work and will enroll your tag you should be fine to have it anywhere with a plastic in front of it as long as its not too thick,
cant wait to hear about the progress!
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Awesome great news!
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You might think about keeping that power supply on a more permanent setup.
You can either buy a (cheap) little adapter off of ebay / amazon that will plug into the connector to give easy access points, and ground that green wire for you.
Or, you can permanently mod the case yourself. Depends on you comfort level. If you open it up, you should be ok, just be safe minded…
Either way, you might find this interesting.
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So I took the door panel off my car and put the antenna inside it on the thinnest and least curved part. I was able to get it to read through the panel in very specific spots but it’s definitely something I’d have to practice doing in order to get quick reads.
One thing I’ve been thinking about was using a custom antenna… I bought some ferrite rod and enamel wire to create a custom antenna for my Proxmark3 Easy and I should have enough materials to create 2. Would an antenna that gives good tuning stats on the Proxmark3 (hw tune) work just as well if I wire it to the Easyguard? I’ve never created an antenna before so I’m not sure if an antenna works on every device or if the tuning would be different on another device?
Not necessarily as it is a tank circuit (inductor and capacitor) your winding the inductor for whatever capacitor is on the proxmark which won’t be the same (Murphy said so) on the xAC
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Yeah. I actually used this exact unit, and it works fairly well. I have a 2009 santa fe, (suv) and it ended up working a little better than I expected. I’ll walk through the build for anyone interested.
I bought the Easyguard ec004 keyless kit from amazon. Basically it uses a short range antenna to verify the RFID tag, then once the brake is pressed, the button is used to start the car. The kit works perfectly but has very little documentation, so I struggled to add my implant once I got it. As long as you can identify your hot wires, your starter wire, and your ACC wires the kit is a piece of cake. I used the webforum 12volt to find the right wiring diagram.
The next problem was finding a way to unlock my car doors with the tag. I ended up using the RFID scanner that Dangerous things sells, and wired that into the door. Because of science, the antenna can’t really be inside the metal door skin, so if your car door is metal you need to find some way to put it outside the door, or behind a non conductive surface thin enough for the signal to reach the implant. Bear in mind the implant has a shorter range than most normal tags, and nearly direct contact is required for a reliable connection. I ended up buying a Dorman handle, same exact shape and dimensions, after a few failed attempts to 3d print something I could use. The problem for me was, I live in fl, so even the high temp abs, got soft and melty once it was on the car, making it useless. I put the antenna over the outside of the handle, and traced the outline, then spent ~6 hrs cutting and shaping a groove into the handle that the antenna fit into. Once the antenna was below the level of the outside surface, I drilled a hole, next to the support hook on the handle, and fed the power lines for the antenna through there. I filled the slot with epoxy, let it set, then sanded to flush and smooth, about 2 or 3 times to make sure it was watertight and perfectly flush.
I pulled apart the door on my car, used power from the hazard light on the bottom, and wired the relay into the lock, using the same leads that let you unlock the whole car with the key, to act as my unlock system. I then pulled the door sensor, (the open/closed one) out, so it was disconnected so I could power the RFID scanner. The scanner then got put into a little 3d printed box, that I waterproofed, then ziptied and taped to the inside of the armrest on the door. door went back together, and everything was rigorously tested for about 2 months with a standard rfid tag.
I then ordered and implanted myself with the 125khz xEM tag (do not recommend, have somebody else do it, or a pro) and set about programming the car with my implant as an authorized user. The door was simple enough, I used the add tag, (part of the set up process) and just added my implant. The Easyguard was not so easy. The lack of documentation on the ec004 means it is very difficult to figure out how to add my chip. After much googling and searching I found a little post on amazon by the seller, which ended up being incorrect. The right way to do it, was to open the little box the starter was in, and find the little white button. Scan an authorized chip or key like would normally be used to start the car, then press the little button twice, and hold for a third press. Hold until the box chirps 3 times, then scan your implant on the RFID scanner for the car. The box will chirp once, you then can release the button, and put your car back together.
This is what worked for me, in my car. I can’t guarantee it will work for yours. For a starter, you will almost definitely need to find a different way to power it. The best method is likely to find a live wire in the dash or fusebox, and use that to power your door unlocking system. I have not had any problems with the scanner killing my battery, due to the incredibly small power draw. By my rough calculations, your average car batter should be able to power that chip for about 600-800 hrs. With the chip and the rest of your car, you only lose about 10 mins of battery from however long you can normally go without starting it. Obviously newer cars with a high passive power draw will last much shorter times than a older car from pre 2000s.
Good luck Hardware hacking
I’d love to answer any further questions
N8
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They must have improved the contents that come with the Easyguard ec004 because mine came with a decent manual that explains the required wiring and how to add new RFID tags (I’ve already added my NeXT).
This is my first car mod so I didn’t realize how many things would need to be bypassed on my car (2014 Honda CRV) to get the starter installed. I think I found a way to bypass the engine lock (the engine won’t start without the factory programmed key fob), but now I have to deal with the steering wheel lock.
The steering wheel only unlocks if the key is in the ignition and clicked over at least one position. I did some research and it looks like people are saying to cut up a spare key and place it in the ignition and click it over to disable the steering lock (it would look like this). This seems really dumb because you’re basically providing a robber a key to steal your car (since the engine lock will be disabled as well)… It sounds like removing the ignition cylinder may also disable the steering lock so I’ll probably go that route if it works.
One thing I’m not totally clear on is if the Easyguard ec004 (the RFID scanner) will be powered when the car is completely off (key not in the ignition)? I’m assuming it will since it’ll be connected to the 12v wire, but I’ve also read things that lead me to believe the ignition switch has to be in the ACC position to power it?
I couldn’t find the wiring diagram for the ignition/alarm of my car on 12volt but I did find this diagram which I’m hoping is all correct. I have a multimeter so I’ll probably verify the wiring myself.
Hi N8,
and welcome to the forums.
Great first post and info sharing.
Glad to have you here.
Here, have one of these
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Yes it will, and for what it’s worth,that is the same route I took.
Yeah, it needs to be, so the antenna can “look” for your NExT.
The door lock 
though, with the xAC for example, you could have a switch or sensor to only power on when you want to unlock.
What you did find is still a really good start, now you can use that to just confirm things, rather than having to find it from scratch
I’m am stoked you are attempting this yourself, and do keep asking questions if you get stuck, there will be somebody here that will be able to help you out, including, by the sounds of it, our new @shittycarmods
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Maybe this is a dumb question but would I be able to use my normal car keys (if I left the ignition cylinder in) while the RFID starter is wired in? The YouTube video that I watched on installing the Easyguard just said to t-splice the starter wires into the car’s wiring so the normal key ignition will still be wired in.
Theres still the mechanical lock on the steering column that keeps you from being able to turn the wheel I believe, unless you deactivate that somehow
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Not at all, as @Eriequiet said, there would still be a mechanical lock, you could think of it as 2FA, scan -turn key to disengage steering lock - push to start.
but not really practical.
Depending on why you wanted keys also, you could instead lend out fobs to others rather than keys.
I think if you were going to carry keys, you might as well not bother with the Push to start and maybe just use xAC for unlocking door 
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I still plan on removing the ignition cylinder to disable the steering lock. The only reason I asked was in case the RFID starter stopped working for some reason. If the key will still work with the ignition cylinder (alongside the starter still being wired in) then at least I know I can just pop in the ignition cylinder quickly and be on my way even if something goes wrong with the RFID starter. I definitely agree that there’s not much of a point in the keyless start if I still need a key (which is why I was hoping removing the ignition cylinder would disable the steering lock).
I think I have everything figured out that I was wanting to know before installing it (engine lock, steering lock, wiring, possible antenna location) so I think I’ll give it a go this weekend when I’m off.
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Yes and no. For most cars, when you remove the ignition cylinder, the car is in ACC2/ACC1. This being said, yes you can remove the ignition cylinder and yes you can use it to turn the car back on. I have a bad habit of leaving my interior light on in my car, and killing the battery(this predicates my adventures with modifying my car) so I keep the old keyed cylinder in my glove box and I still have the keyhole on the door. I ended up mounting the push button in the hole where the old key used to go. Oh, and remember to disconnect the wire brick from the back of the old ignition cylinder. This will prevent anyone from just reaching in and turning it to start the car, and will also prevent the car from staying on in ACC2/ACC1
As far as power goes, @Pilgrimsmaster is right, you need to provide power to what ever scanner you are using to unlock the car. I like the xAC, simple cheap, and designed to work with your implant already. Even better, if you use heavily insulated wires, I found you can lengthen the connecting cable on the antenna on the xAC without messing with the signal to a point. I added about 1ft, and it functioned fine, but maintain a heavy insulation to minimize interference. TBH only modify the antenna as a last resort as you can ruin it.
I powered my module of a hazard light in the door, and my disable switch is the door shut switch. (modified so it needs manual activation/deactivation) I had a few days of though into choosing to use this as a power source. First, you can really use almost any 12v power supply as long as there is nothing else on that specific circuit that will cause high power draw. This is unlikely to be a problem, cars are very good when it comes to that sort of problem. You want to choose a power source, where in the worst case, if you fry it while driving, you will be fine. For this reason try to stay away from important car functions such as lights, brake lights, turn signals, fuel pump, ect. Your power source should always have power regardless of the car being on or off. Dome lights are a good choice, they always have power, and if the dome light dies, you can still drive safely. A number of people have figured out how to rewire their 12v ac outlet to an always on state, that would also be a good choice.
Tips for not regretting this awesome choice. Make sure the car can function normally with your power draw.(some newer cars wont let you lock the car if your door is open, or if they detect a power draw that shouldn’t be there) You car being 2014, you should be fine. Test your set up thoroughly, IE set off the alarm, try unlocking it a few dozen times, different set ups like sunroof open, trunk open, ect. Finally, leave a way to unlock it manually, and keep a manual key on you for a few weeks, just in case. I eventually plan on getting a little lockbox for a manual key, and welding it to the underside of the car, for the horrible eventuality when your car dies. As far as jumpstarting goes, the Easyguard handles it fine.
Good luck
N8
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Also on a slightly odd note, has anyone though of wiring the Easyguard button as a console standard button instead of the one that comes with the kit? IE a climate control button that never gets used. Then deleting the stock keyhole, so it looks like there is no way to start the car?
N8
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Thanks for mentioning that! That was something that I was wondering (if I should keep the ignition wires plugged in) but forgot to ask.
I’ll probably wait a while before implementing the xAC lock/unlock in the doors but at least I have the great info that you guys have given me when I am ready. I’ll probably need a few months to recover from the stress of installing the Easyguard! 
Edit: One last question. I’ll disconnect the car battery when splicing the wires together, but how easy is it for me to kill myself (or fry something in the car) when testing the wires (with a multimeter) if I somehow accidentally touched the metal of the wires with my hand (not likely to happen, but…)? Do any of the wires that I’ll be messing with have enough voltage and/or amperage to do any damage?
Everything should be 12v dc I think, should be pretty hard to injure yourself significantly… though a shock might smart
As far as damage, I have avoided messing with vehicle computer stuff, I think in some regards they are designed to be robust so they don’t constantly have issues, but typically small delicate components don’t like being over loaded
I’m neither an electrician nor a vehicle technician, just some dude who has a robot hand
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