I didnāt really want to post about it in the project section yet, since I want to post it as one big write up when Iām done, but I just hit a major milestone in a project Iāve been working on for the last 2 months or so 
Iām working on my first custom PCB project, just finished my first board revision, sending it off for fabrication in the coming days. Iām making a custom ATmega328P-based ignition switch replacement board, for starting my car via implant (gonna use the same board for my door unlock too since iāll have spares).
Itās got built-in support for a PN532 breakout board via I2C for the NFC half of things (using a nice 5 pin header on the board itself). Itās got relays for each key position (key insert, ACC, run, and start) along with a spare relay in case I want to add extra functionality down the line, or if a different ignition needs an extra position for some reason (might tie my echo auto and dashcam into it, since my car doesnāt disable the 12V ports when the car is off). Each relay has a jumper to allow you to select whatās needed for a particular car ignition (for mine the signal wires are active low, shorted to ground to activate, I know some ignitions use an active high type system). I figured if I have to order 5 boards minimum anyway, I might as well make it adaptable to different cars in theory. Itās got some fairly obvious safety features too (fused via an automotive blade fuse holder, and a main power cutoff switch header for when I park for long periods). I also threw an extra I2C header on there, considering using one of those tiny OLED screens for a status indicator (the board already has a socket for 2 LEDs to act as status indicators).
The actual code is pretty much done for basic functionality as well, works well on a breadboard. Not very different from the code for my safe, just with a lot more checks in place.
For tackling the other issues with a car conversion, Iām getting a basic transponder bypass off of amazon for remote start systems, and I actually threw a header on the board to provide easy power for that, also allowing it to be switched by the main power cutoff, or optionally the last relay (Iāve killed a lot of car batteriesā¦). Then for the steering lock, Iām just gonna use the shaved key method that a lot of push button start kits use. Just take a non-chipped key, grind the head down to a stump, then leave it in the electrically disconnected ignition at the ACC position. Iāll also throw a 3D printed cover over top of the key. My key cylinder isnāt on the steering column anyway, so with a cover itās likely to go unnoticed. Without the transponder bypass enabled via relay, it wouldnāt be able to start the car anyways.
Iām also working on a 3D print to allow it to smoothly integrate into my dash. I have a 1U radio and a 2U slot, so Iām building it into the extra space (printing it in ABS, no worries about warping in a hot car). The faceplate will also act as the mounting point for the PN532 board, the main power cutoff (under one of those neat toggle switch covers), and two momentary switches for start and stop. I also added a double tap mode to allow me to put it in ACC if I ever need to. The faceplate is also where the LEDs are gonna mount, or the OLED if I decide to go that way. I programmed them like a standard reader (hold green if recognized, flash red if not, etc).
The project is called CaRFID by the way If the digi-key order and the PCBs arrive quickly, and everything goes to plan with testing, hopefully Iāll have it all finished and a write-up posted by the end of the month, if not itāll probably go til mid-January. Iāll also upload the KiCad files at that point, along with the firmware. If anyone ends up being interested at that time, I should have a couple PCBs left over too. Assuming the first revision isnāt absolutely terrible, Iād be more than up for selling the remaining boards at cost, and sending the digi-key BOM so someone could put together their own kit. The BOM is currently ~$27 for the parts needed, with a lot of that being for connectors. Itād be a lot cheaper to solder everything directly, but I decided I didnāt want to have to deal with soldering too much inside my car. The boards themselves are looking about $4-5 each including shipping ($24 or so for 5 boards). Being able to just splice the cables, throw a crimp and connector on them, and plug it in all at once, sounded like a lot less annoyance. Plus it makes it easier to swap out the board or remove it if I need to add a bodge or reprogram the board (via an onboard ISP6 header I added).
Sorry for the length and messy formatting, by the way.
Upgraded from a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 to an Ender 3 Pro. Got a ton of upgrades for it too, just finished getting them installed. My version has the 32-bit control board, which is a nice upgrade. So far since I got it a few hours ago Iāve upgraded it to an all metal extruder, added a glass bed, and installed a BLTouch auto bed leveling system. Really liking it so far 
hopefully the MRI will give us a clue.