Most lead acid batteries are considered āDeadā at 10.5 ~ 11.0 volts. You can pull more out, but youāre doing more and more damage the further you go. Best not to go below that.
Full charge is around 12.6 volts.
So 100% is 12.6 and 0% is 11.0
You should be able to work out a āpercent of chargeā scale by mapping those vaues to voltages.
If you want to be very specific about your particular battery, you can probably look it up by itās manufacturer and get exact full charge / full discharge voltages.
The problem with relying on voltage is that it only tells you the charge state of the battery. It says nothing of the batteryās capacityāwhich for better or worse is measure in amp hoursā¦ During a batteryās discharge (with regard to lead acid), sulfates accumulate on the lead plates. As this occurs, the batteryās capacity decreases. With deep cycle batteries, you can hit them with a higher voltage to break down the sulfates but it causes hydrogen off gasssing so donāt do this with SLA battsā¦ Eventually, the lead break down enough that you lose a cell (each lead acid cell offers 2v so your 12v batt has six cells) and then and only then will your max voltage drop enough to be suspect.
Thatās why you measure conductance to determine the health of a battery rather than voltage which only tells you itās current chargeāwhich might only have a capacity of 10% of your specā¦
If you really want to dive into batteries, check out the conductance curves. A battery will actually initially be improving when you first commission it (unless youāre just deep cycling itā¦) This is known as āforming.ā
Just a personal anecdote, but as someone with ADHD that struggles greatly with reading comprehension(I can read very quickly but I will not take in any of that information unless I read it multiple times.) I gravitated towards the right text first and I only had to read it once to understand what it was saying
Thatās funnyā¦ other people with ADHD I know will also look at āthe wrong thingā of a meme first then read the words that apply where normally people would read the words and then look at the photoā¦ it might be an attempt to comprehend the photo first to help with text comprehension. Thatās interesting!
I used an Xbox Kinect (the 360 kinect) years ago, using some special software. It was probably like 2017? 2016?
You can adapt a kinect on PC, by chopping off the special connector, exposing 5 wires. You wire 4 of them to standard USB, and two to a 12 volt supply (you share the ground). However, I did a really shoddy job of doing this, and right after taking that head scan, 12 volts shorted to the 5v lines. Killed half of the USB ports on that old motherboard, as well as killing the kinect itself.
I have another kinect I picked up at a garage sale, and tried to adapt that as well, but couldnāt get it to work. Thinking the kinect itself might also be dead. Need to take another look at it and see if I can get it working this time, I found it recently.
Pro-tip: the software is called Skanect. It costs a good amount of money, but if you just search Skanect + names of random colleges, you may or may not find an āalternativeā way of using the software
You can get Xbox 360 kinects on ebay for like $10-12.
Itās a shame how little things have come in the last 10 years. The hardware of the Kinect v1 is capable of a ton, but software never caught up, especially on the open source end. libfreenect is neat, and has some stuff to play around with, but nothing useful.
On the proprietary windows end, Skanect itself is barely updated, despite being a paid product, and the company has pivoted to using newer scanners of their own brand. Microsoft has their 3D Scan tool, but it only supports the Kinect v2 from the Xbox One.
I might eventually give in and buy a different scanner with modern software, or build a photogrammetry rig.
The problem is, even once you have a quality scan, regardless of solution, manipulating it into something useful is still a PITA. It feels like there are two sides of 3D model design. The CAD side, for functional parts, and the art side. Taking something in a loose 3D model, with a ton of imperfections, and using it in a CAD workflow, seems nearly impossible without a ton of work. There has been a ton of times where I would want to match the contour of something in a scan, but it doesnāt seem like thatās easy to do. I used to use Meshmixer for that kind of thing, but it hasnāt been updated in 5 years, and it feels like nothing has taken over that slack for manually editing meshes.
In pretty much all cases, itās better just to manually measure and make a part in proper CAD software, even if the fit isnāt absolutely perfect to certain contours.
Iām hoping someone like Bambu Lab makes a 3D scanner as well. The hardware is there, and has been there since the first Kinect, but the software needs so much work.
Little weird, but bear with me.
Does anybody know about living / work conditions around Gold Beach Oregon?
Long story short.
My work recently announced theyāre shutting everything down and moving the work mostly overseas. The plant will be closed by end of 2024, but I could literally be laid off at any time. Nobody local is going to pay a decent wage or use my skills. My choices are, stick it out, and retrain (free college on unemployment), or pack up and move.
Thereās not much holding me here. Itās just me and the cat. Oh, and they made a total asshat (bully personality) my boss. So work is now incredibly boring AND stressful.
Iāve lived on the plains of Kansas, and Iām in the hilly woods of Arkansas now. Edge of the ocean next to the mountains sounds good. Iām also set on moving someplace rural, and with access to gold mining.
I like rain, we get ~5 inches a year here, whatās 70-80 inches like? Also is it straight falling rain (Arkansas) or the windswept rain that comes at you sideways (Kansas)? Constant and light, or periodic downpour? Constant Downpour?
Iām a machinist, and I donāt see any shops in the area, but Iāve always been a fix it kind of guy. Any suggestions?
hold music continues to play
