Talked to my classmate and told him about some outside resources to study for the national certs last week. If he and I are the only ones who pass the exams out of our EMT stand alone class and the fire academy, maybe thatāll add some weight to the complaint as well haha
1 Like
Iāve seen that from universities to flight schoolsā¦
My experience with that in Latin America has been hit or miss. Ultimately, I lost trust in educational institutions.
1 Like
Iām not sure if this is the right place to ask, but does anybody lift here? How long did yāall wait to get back into the gym? Iām thinking of an xSIID in p0 and an xg3 v2 in my knifes edge, both on the right hand.
I donāt think the p0 one would be an issue after a couple days, but Iām reading 2 weeks is best for xg3ās. Given that the bars are steel and Iām benching some 80kg, and deadlifting about 130ā¦ Iām thinking itād be wise to wait the two weeks, but Iām hoping someone tells me itās not necessary.
Iām assuming you are not competitive, just find some alternative movements, itāll probably work out better for mixing it up, working some different and smaller muscle groups.
Shick your muscles with something new.
calisthenic alternatives are a good option
Press ups, pull ups etc.
2 Likes
Iāve always waited for 2 weeks before lifting after getting an implant. Good time to do some cardio. Or do leg exercices that do not need the arms. Leg press for instance.
And usually for 2 more weeks, I take it very easy on the hands. Nothing that could put too much stress on the implantation site.
Maybe Iām too cautious.
4 Likes
Thanks yāall! I only really have free weights at home, so Iāll probably head over to the gym for a bit to do some of the exercises.
Those sound like theyād still put quite a bit of stress on the knifeās edge, wouldnāt it?
Mind if I pick the more electrical peeps?
Just want a sanity check before I start messing with big crackle
I have these 3 work lights over my bench
Itās hard to tell in the picture, but each lamp has a switch on the 6ā cord, that is attached to the black beam next to itā¦ each bulb is a 9w LED, each cord is a standard ungrounded 2 prong
so not a lot of juice but so you have all the info
The lamp cords werenāt long enough for me to route like I wanted, so I settled for running them behind the pegboard to the power strip on the bottom at a 45
I know Iām being picky, but I donāt like this setup and I wanna do it right, (I plan to back light the pegboard and the cords will draw unwanted attention)
Iād like to extend the cords so I can run them down the left side in a nice clean line
Hereās the sanity checks because I normally avoid ac if I can
- Is changing the cords from a 6ā cord to something like a 10-12ā cord egregiously wrong for any reason Iām overlookingā¦ assuming proper connections and whatnotā¦ shouldnāt be all that different than an extension cord in theory but right? (Iāll need to find a wire calculator at some point to make sure the gauge is fine for loadā¦ but I think itās probably close to fine maybe)
- I was planning to open up the switch unit on the cord and simply reconnect the new wire there, instead of doing a full cut and solder mid wireā¦ making sure that sounds fine
- Depending on wire gauges, I was thinking it would be even cleaner, to have each lamp only have a enough wire to all meet at a single point, and then wire them together in parallel to the single wire that would run down the wall
Thinking, right and left most lamp would have a 3ā length and meet in the middle,
Or
Right most lamp has 6ā length
Middle lamp has 3ā length
Left lamp has couple inches, and then the single wire down the wall
Sorry to bug, lemme know what you think
edit
Internet calculator results
I calculated it out with a 60watt incandescent bulb worst caseā¦ just in case?
I have an 8ft power strip that only has 14awg, now Iām second guessing either itās cord or this math lol
1 Like
Iām pretty sure @Devilclarke was previously an electrician.
His experience will be with 230-240V but he will have the certified knowledge you are after
The best proper way would be to replace the existing cords with longer ones that are the same type. The insulation should tell you but most of the time its SPT1 or SPT2. Both are capable of handling 10 amps at up to 50 ft so thatāll be plenty for what you need. And it is best practice to keep it to separate plugs instead of joining them all together into one.
Any particular reason?
Not being argumentative, I just would prefer the cleaner single cord, only downsides I see are thicker wire gauge needed, and āharderā to reuse the lamps in a different setting
(I would plan to save the original cords in case I ever needed to revert)
7 Likes
From what Iām reading it looks like it is possible to combine them into one chord. I suggest you read section 410 of the 2017 NEC on requirements for luminaries.
I really do recommend just lengthening the chords then using small zip ties to run them together.
But why? Thatās what Iām askingā¦ Iām trusting you have your reason for saying this Iām curious to learn
1 Like
I say it because as far as my understanding of the code goes(which is admittedly limited) extensing the wires is the easiest way to go about it. Joining the 3 can be a little messy and seems to me that it is tricky to do it right.
This is not advice however, if I was in your position with the same intentions I would route a channel into the back of the wooden board the lamps are mounted to. Add a panel mount switch and a cable gland on an L braket at the end of the board then splice the three lamps together inside the channel with either crimps or weigo connectors.
Genuine question
Iām trying to keep it all sleek and minimized right?
Is a proper solder joint with heat shrink unacceptable in this situation? The various crimps and connectors are much larger and look out of placeā¦
A butt connector I could probably slip heat shrink back over top of
If I have to use something like the lever nuts or something else bulky, in that situation, I would take your approach of just extend all 3 cords and run them down in one of those black cable wrapsā¦ just trying to clean up the setup within reason
I know very little about code, I know right?ā¦shocking
If weāre being honest me just staring at the wire too long is probably against code
1 Like
You can do it with solder. A T-splice is probably the best for the use case. Whats most important is that the join is mechanically secure that way even if the solder melts if the wire gets too hot it doesnāt disconnect itself.
edit: What Iām referring to here is pretty much word for word from the 2017 NEC Specifically 110.14(B)
1 Like
Jesusā¦ that is somehow worse than faa or atf nonsensešµāš«
If you can screenshot it Iād appreciate it, I canāt navigate that to save my lifeā¦ and search doesnāt work 
So in a nutshell solder insāt considered a mechanical connection? ā¦ but you are also not supposed to put soldered wires into mechanical connections 
Jesus I just want to splice a couple wires lol
edit
Okā¦ can I use a reducing butt crimp to connect 3 wires on one side to a single on the other?
Iām going to assume no, because that would actually solve my issue 
1 Like
Splicing wires with solder gets complicated thatās why most splices in your house are typically wirenutted. I linked you section 110. all you need to do is scroll down to 14(B). Hereās a screenshot anyways.
Okā¦ so can I use a butt crimp reducing connector to join 3 wires on one side, to a single on the other side?
Iām going to guess no, because that would somehow be too easy
Wire nut or anything where the wires arenāt connected in a linear direction is going to look equal or more trash than my current issue
1 Like