Since I’ll be doing very low quantity I don’t think this will be an issue. These are prototypes not small batch production. If I need to I can change out to something else… but for now I’d like something simple I can quickly drop 2 or 3 in and out easy.
More than half the reason I’m needing something is the simple problem of metal on glass is a bad idea… beyond that, easy swap out of glass is a distant secondary goal.
That’s where 3d print shines
Let me know if you want me to send you a few prototypes your way. I have some petg that will hold to slightly higher temps
That’s what I meant… how much heat propagates from the melt zone?
also, is there a SPECIFIC reason you wanted something soft like silicone?
I imagine your glass has pretty tight tolerances, a reasonable clearance should be easy enough to design in to let you use stiffer materials such as the above PETG, or hell even metal if you can find someone with a proper machinist drill set
I’ve got some soft elastic resin for the resin printer. It doesn’t work for the project I bought it for so it’s just sitting around. I could make a resin printed version too if you’d like.
not sure yet but the goal is to minimize this as much as possible. in the factory with the special laser it’s extremely fast because the laser chemistry puts out the exact wavelength at peak absorption so the glass almost instantly melts and fuses and cools rapidly… its over before you can blink… which is the point when they are kicking out 1000s per day. My setup will be considerably slower than that… so I have no idea yet what the heat propagation will be like.
Not really soft like silicone most people think of, but like a very hard durometer silicone… just enough to let me push the glass into place and pull it out without damaging the glass surface and without risk of it moving or wiggling around while getting blasted.
yes exactly
absolutely! I’ll take all types of test materials and put the results up for DT Club
I need to replace a burned out stepper on my ender 3 tonight (5 years of wear the x finally died, Y died last year)
I can make a few prints tonight, because I remembered I have my little kit of various bad chips for display purposes… I can use this to fine tune the tolerances…. At least for my printer (this will be important later)
rough draft…
going to try for .15pu clearance see how that feels and adjust edit .15pu too tight… I also see why that xm1 was a reject… I broke the bad seal off it
trying for .30pu clearance edit .30pu too loose
lets split the difference and see what that do at .22pu edit
.22pu is perfect… now I just need to make the 1\4 hex a good deal tighter
Done, might have gone .05pu too tight on the 1/4” hex… I can play with that later… but 3mm glass works good in v1 of this using petg
Printed a bracket for my knock off gopro so I can start doing timelapses without having a precarious stack of random shit on my desk chair to get the gopro sitting high enough XD
Anyone else on here do videos of their prints? I’m just starting to get into timelapses, thinking about buying a nicer camera soon and setting up pictures for every layer like the fancy vids.
Please forgive the mess, I just got back and haven’t set up the desk trash can yet XD
The E3 bed is sitting between the two printers though to keep the PETG on the right from peeling up due to the fan on the hot end of the E3 on the left.
Have whatever the nicer Logitech webcam the octoprint can use in the mail, possibly lost at this point
I wouldn’t have the restraint to keep from standing in front of them if doing a raw time lapse… and I don’t think I’m willing to set up the gantry moved out of the way time lapse… not because of effort… but I feel like your just asking for issues with dribble
Was it USPS? XD
I’m loosing the patience of the timelapse on the GoPro, the battery doesn’t last long enough so I have to keep checking on it and replacing the battery, and the connection for the knock off gopros is like a weird version of the Mini USB and didn’t come with a cable. I need to get something that plugs into the RPi.
Though I just sat back down at my desk and the connection between the S1 and Octo timed out about 90% into a print with no option to resume
I looked up the S1 again and it looks like a nice printer. If there wasn’t for the couple of things that bother me about my E3, I’d probably get one. It’s still a bit of a shame that replacing the motherboard with a third party one isn’t as straightforward as on the older E3 models.
Guess I’m back to debating whether my next printer should be an E3 v2 Neo with a few upgrades, an E3 S1, or a Prusa Mini+.
Or maybe I should build a Voron instead? Or get back to filling my body with implants? The latter is a cheaper hobby…