Wish me luck fitting it in the box… Otherwise I’ll disassemble it further.
I’d just wrap it in cling wrap, and then put in a large box
I’ve been conscripted to help make a sort of physical validation token for a facebook sale group… I wont tell you what they sell, but its legal, usually not specifically against TOS but they get zucked a lot… so they keep everything in DM’s… but proving who’s a known entity vs some random is difficult…
they want me to make then " vouch coins" for when enough people of clout vouch for someone they can receive a physical token…
easy enough…
but now I’m toying with the idea of embeding a NTAG into the coin… which I can do nbd thats something I do from time to time…
but what would be a way to BEST utilize this in an identifying manner?
I was initially just going to write some kind of unique funny meme or youtube link to each one and lock the tag… probably record the UID also…(I have my doubts that non rfid peeps will be able to understand the UID…
also in theory if they are copying the uid and sending it to potential buyers… that info is no longer secure or unique…
thoughts?
comments on how I’m overthinking it?
I have decreed that in that facebook group, I shall receive the mod title of “master of coin” forthwith lol
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Nope. Let’s talk VivoKey AuthentiChip
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Finally got my second Ender 3 spiffied up and working. It’s so glorious seeing both printers going at the same time. 
I think my next upgrade will be silent main boards and Noctuas fan swap, for ultimate silence. 
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Silent board and noctua upgrade is amazing. I did all the fans except for the parts cooling blower including the PSU. You can barely hear my printer running when I’m on a hot mic when I’m working.
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I don’t know how some of you guys are still running the stock extruder on your Enders… That thing drove me up the walls!
I’ve never really had any issues with the stock hotend. I like to think I have my printers pretty well tuned most of the time. Sometimes I spend more time tinkering with them than I do printing. 
I also don’t tend to print anything too exotic. Mostly PLA with the occasional PETG print.
Got my ender as an affordable and useable learning tool. But someday I’d like to have one that doesnt need tuning.
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My Ender doesn’t need tuning in day to day operation. But getting to this point was outright painful.
I mostly print ABS and ASA.
I kinda want to get a better and bigger printer. Ideally one that can handle full size helmets… I might have a small project… 
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Nor does mine, day to day, it prints very well. I just enjoy working on things with my hands sometimes. That’s why fixing up the second Ender (which was actually @invalid_signal’s at one point) was a fun project for me.
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i noticed that there were different release models of the ender where the extruder or motors were changed out at some point.
I got lucky on my extruder and hotend but the motor that powers the extruder died on me and i had to get a replacement. that was a pain because the newer ones have a D shaft, and the older ones are a straight shaft with a press fit gear.
Those are a pain, especially when the brass gear wears out under the pressure of the idler bearing.
I’m thinking about printing helmets and cosplay stuff, any advice on making larger parts on an Ender 3? Or should I just buy a bigger and better printer?
I want to build a Ratrig but have way too many projects already.
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If you want to print them in one go, the ender will be too small
Closest in style but more size is the Kobra max I think?
Id recommend either a p1s or a x1c Bambu thu just on the edge of big enough for helmets, but it opens a whole new world
What about the k1?
I resisted buying a filament printer for years because I don’t have time/resources/interest to endlessly tinker. Two years ago I felt the field had started producing true plug’n’play machines and bought a Creality CR-10 V3 E3D. It was a breeze to set up and printed a few of those sample tugboats perfectly. On about the 4th print the feed gear on the hot end exploded. I think I fed in some poor quality filament which didn’t melt and the knurled filament feed strained to push it into the hot end until it bust a gut.
It was such a disappointment after finally deciding to jump in that I just abandoned it. But now I have a couple of projects that filament would be better suited for. So…
Do any of you know what is the least amount of parts I would need to replace to get it back up and running?
I don’t want to start over from scratch: the machine is “new” and unused.
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Ok, that’s a 24v version of the CR-10.
The extruder on my Ender 3 also did that, several times… I tried a metal version but ended up with a cheap bontech clone. But I’d start by taking it apart, cleaning the filament residue, and setting the tension towards the lower side of the scale. You should also check the hotend as clogs cause extruder problems.
I’m way too tired but look if it has an all metal of PTFE lined hotend. All metal is less likely to clogg in my experience. Sometimes you get a gap between nozzle and PFTE lining that fills with plastic and this creates a messy clogg.
Also, once you get the extruder and hotend side of things working, get a CR-Touch. It helps a lot.
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Insomnia kicked in so here’s what I found about the extruder on the CR-10 v3; it’s an E3D Titan:
That one looks like a great extruder and I almost bought one for my Ender. However, I have never used one so take this with a grain of salt.
From what I could find, the CR-10 v3 appears to come with a PTFE lined hotend. If that’s the case, you need to clean out the thing, then unscrew the nozzle by about 3/4 of a turn, seat the PTFE tube all the way in, and then tighten the nozzle.
Or you could just get an all metal heatbreak and call it a day. I have a Copperhead in my E3, it works great.
And the forum decided to remind me of the DT product that I should’ve ordered…
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