Well, I don’t have a picture that I can share for this but I’ve 3D printed PCB designs as a sanity check to see if everything would fit as intended.
Sure, you can always export as a step file and check things in CAD. But nothing beats trying things out in the real world.
@Satur9, I think that you’ll find this post interesting.
Apparently the plot thickens with my sleep issues with my laptop based setup….
I knew modern standby was garbage… but apparently half the reason I’ve been tearing my hair out at preventing various things from waking the computer is…
All the accessible configurations, such as “allow this device to wake pc” and all the powercfg stuff…
ONLY effects “normal” sleep… it doesn’t change anything to do with modern standby… so there’s literally no way to change specifics…
Luckily I’ve been able to limit my interactions with mechanical engineers when doing my designs. I make sure before a job even starts that I clear with the client whether the mechanical or electrical aspects are a higher priority, and then just defer to that in any decision making moving forward. If the mechanical aspects are more important, I make sure to wait for one of their team members to finish the enclosure with STEP files and dimensional drawings and I base my design off of that (using my familiarity with “tolerances” on PCB fab).
If the electronics take priority, or they don’t have a mechanical person, or I’m doing a personal project, I either design based on the mounting holes for a particular Polycase, or I just make it as small as physically possible and include half mounting holes or notches along the edges.
I can’t trust a 3D printed PCB (even in resin) to actually be dimensionally accurate enough help me with “fitting”
I’ve been trying to get more involved in the mechanical side of things for a long while. Hence why I got some 3D printers…
True, how useful this is depends a lot on the tolerances required and how well your printer is calibrated. I’ve mostly used it to communicate ideas with mechanical engineers and as a sanity check. But when in doubt, a bit of extra clearance doesn’t hurt, in some cases at least. And I also like that it gives you a tangible object to play with.
However, I’m in the middle of South America so shipping to where I live can be slow…
I use like 1 roll of pla a year and overtime they tend to bubble and get worse. Do I really need to get a filament dryer thingy or can I get away with an oven or some diy solution?
Same boat… 
Yep that’s likely humidity being absorbed,
You can usually dry it out with a filament dryer, dehydrator… some printers have a mode where you can turn on the heated bed and seal the spool with a Tupperware type lid
You got as use heat to get it back out, desiccant only prevents,
How did you film my printer, Pilgrimsmaster?
I really need to improve my home security…
I think your network security is more to blame if you’re worried about the AI
My home network was amazing a few years ago, I need to step up my game again and get some nice juicy enterprise switches.
I want to care about network security, I really do
But the more I look into it, the more and more exhausting it appears
Like I kinda wanna get some external cameras for the house… but stuff either spies on you like eufy or requires a subscription(and probably spies on you still)
Or you have to build a whole thing from the ground up and air gap it etc
I have a plethora of dumb gigabit switches, so that is all i use.
Yea…. I’m permanently disqualified from office warfare
We use pallets of qtips and glue…
Took me about 5 minutes of thinking and 1 minute of macguyvering to turn a glue dispenser into a qtip launcher… it was a bit….overpowered
… do you know how much energy you need to put into a qtip for it to indent drywall?
I’m working on my standalone proxmark3 easy rn. It’s gonna be a long project, i’ve really underestimated the amount of work it’ll involve xD
It uses Milk-V duo 256m (tiny low-power RISC-V sbc), HC-06 and usb pins on dupont header on the side, so it still can be used as a normal pm3 over bluetooth/usb.
I kinda forgot to include LF antenna tho (i removed it almost immediately when i bought pm3 cuz i have no use for it), and disassembling this thing is gonna be a HUGE pain, so i probably won’t do LF stuff in it, at least it is a very low priority for now.
Thanks a lot to @darthdomo for PinePhone Proxmark case thread, this project only happened because i stumbled on their thread some time ago.
YET!!!
LF is great for super cheap and easy projects
Thanks for the shoutout 
Even though that didn’t result in a complete product, I’m glad something came of that work lol
Great project!
Just a simple little mod on my Door lock.
Reviewed here:
The batteries last approx 6-12 months depending on usage.
Changing the batteries is not arduous at all, and its only a single phillips screw to access 4x aaa’s.
But this time around, I decided to change the power supply method.
I grabbed a usb powerbank.
A USB cable, and chopped the end off, split and stripped the ends.
I pulled the backend off, and passed the ends through from the rear.
Soldered to the terminals.
Closed it up, put the backend back on.
Plugged it into the powerbank, and mounted it to the door with Velcro.
(I’ll design and 3D print a mount when I settle on a powerbank)
You rebel. I like. I may copy.
… lets be honest, I will copy
Also where is the battery compartment? Is there the possibility of putting batteries in if necessary from the exterior of the lock?
