I think most tripods use 1/4-20. No clue what they do in the land of metric chaos.
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I prefer STEP when possible. It’s a standard for CAD, so it allows more flexibility if you want to edit things.
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True, but it looks like @Chimpofm designed it in Tinkercad which I don’t think supports exporting as STEP
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I am ODaily, Maker of Metals!
The iron bar was not supposed to get dropped in, but… Shit happens.
This was just my first succesful run, will need to repeat a bunch more before I can start extracting the silver from it.
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Sorry never saw this… I’ve been spotty on here lately… gimme a bit to catch up
yea that’s the Chakram wireless…. I really like it,
It’s given me some weird bugs now and then rgb wise, but I can never track down if it’s the hardware of software…
As for Icue, I literally never use it, I only installed it to set hardware default fan rgb patterns and colors, beyond that I run signal rgb pretty much all the time and it overrides and controls all my lights
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I’ve had a pei effects plate for a while but always struggled to get really nice results from it.
So I asked chatgpt and damn if the results aren’t night and day. Simple settings like reducing the first layer height to .16 and increasing flow to 125% has made some incredible results.
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I’m assuming that just for the first layer, right?
You could get the same effect by lowering the Z offset instead. But good to know that there’s a way to make those work, I destroyed the one I had by printing TPU on it…
Do note that I don’t recommend increasing the flow that much for the whole print as you’ll definitely get a lot of stringing and surface defects.
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I ordered some soap filament this week because my wife wants to try printing soap. I am sure this is going to be a disaster lol
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Happy Wife, Happy Life.
Always worth it.
i seek your wisdom… vintage ender 3. Cura slicer.
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It’s a linear advance / coasting thing
As it decelerates into the corner, there is pressure still built up in the Bowden tube,
You can add a coasting value in cura, which will stop the extruder early
there are ways to really dial in in using klipper And or doing actual linear advance calibrations, but I never got to that point with my own ender
If your design, bevel the corners and you’ll have less issues also
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Ill try that next. Google tells me to play with the jerk and acceleration. Which is currently printing..
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It is indeed related to speed and the pressure inside of the nozzle. Of course, Bowden extruders suffer a lot more from this particular issue because of the length of the filament betweenthe extruder and hotend and the elasticity of the plastics involved. So a direct drive conversion might be worth considering but moving the extruder is not a silver bullet.
There are two ways to fix it, slowing down or compensating for that in software. The latter option is better.
Hopefully the firmware of your printer has Linear Advance already and configuringthe K value will be enough: Linear Advance | Marlin Firmware
I will recommend looking into Orca Slicer as ot has a lot of built-in calibration prints that can help fine tune that, and a lot of other things.
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OK.i found costing any ideas on what values to try?
Jerk and acceleration can be factors,
The less time in spends decelerating, the more dramatic that pressure build up, or you don’t even decelerate at all, which is violent, but smoother on the extruder etc
I can’t remotely remember, it was a cubic mm value not a length value, so it’s a little screwy
You can add the value, slice, preview with line type. And look at it and you will see where it stops extruding early to gauge… I like it to stop extruding like 1-2mm before a corner I think
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I have no idea of how that works on Cura, but I’d look for a a test print that varies the value as it prints. Then you can choose the setting that looks the best.
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I definitely would Also recommend orca or even bambu studio… surprisingly works quite well for and Ender…
I sliced some demo projects for my coworker and never even saw or touched his printer,
Just a blind default slice with my normal tweaks and it came out 95%
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