What id recommend is the 20mm xyz cube,
You can print multiple with different values, (print one at a time mode works nicely here)
Or you can change the costing value at various heights in the print ![]()
What id recommend is the 20mm xyz cube,
You can print multiple with different values, (print one at a time mode works nicely here)
Or you can change the costing value at various heights in the print ![]()
Frick I’m old. My first printer was a Prusa Mendel

I wanted one of those back in the day… Then ignored 3D printing altogether until the Ender 3 was starting to fade into obsolescence…
Printed a soap dish that has a spout and drains into the sink.
Sadly, most of the designs along these lines are designed to be easy to print with no consideration of functionality. And those designs fail by being completely flat on the bottom, including the spout. This allows for water to cling and drain towards the counter instead of into the sink…
I was about to design my own but gave printables one last chance. And I found one that solves those problems:
That looks like the perfect project to make with my soap filament when it comes in ![]()
Hello 3D printers! Is anyone using diamondback nozzles in their printers?
If it helps .. im still on a classic unmodded ender3. Only thing i changed was adding a glass bed… duno why I print on rafts…
Mine has a PEI bed, stiffer springs, CR-Touch, Hummingbird extruder mod, and klipper…
Along with a screw mod that I came up with but never published. Maybe I should, even if it’s incredibly late for this model?
I’ve heard very good things about them. Do you have a specific use case?
nothing specific i just have had a few nozzles clog up and cleaning them out was a bitch according to @tac0s who had the unfortunate job of trying to clear them.
I’ve had very few clogs. In my experience, CHT nozzles are the worst to clean when they do clog up, and high flow hotends with a long melt zone (Like the Bambu ones IIRC) are a pain to cold pull.
On the prevention side of things, using high quality filament, keeping the nozzle cold when not printing, and making sure that no metal parts in the filament path are falling apart helps. I personally keep the nozzle cold until the bed is up to temperature. But the worst clog I’ve had to deal with was caused by a tooth from a PTFE tube coupler that broke off and ended up in the nozzle.
Although I never had any clogs with the terrible Argentinian made Grilon3 filament. I don’t like it because it’s more stringy and inconsistent than the Chinese brands…
Bambu Lab printers are also less flexible when it comes to configuration and start gcode. And probably need to heat up the nozzle to clean it so that the bed leveling works properly because of the load cell based ABL.
I did have a small leak and decided to replace these parts:
I need to order more silicone socks. And I guess that I could clean those parts but it’s probably not worth it considering that the entire assembly cost less that $10, probably less than $5 if you shop around on AliExpress…
The cost of cheap parts is low performance and difficult installation procedures. Additionally, most proprietary nozzle designs are leakproof. So this mess wouldn’t have happened on a Bambu, a newer Prusa, or a printer with a Revo hotend…
Edit: I did have a spare sock!
Hopefully these parts won’t leak and things will stay relatively clean in there…