FYI all the data in the image DEZ8 - Pattern Sebury are just alternative formats of the ID. Basically the only non sensitive data is the fact it detected it as a EM410x.
I wrote a post that should help you understand it if you want to have a look see.
Out of interest did it say anything about t55xx detected below the last line you sent?
But essentially, your xEM should definitely be able to clone it. It even should be enrollable without changes as it comes pre configured as a em41xx…
No, no reference to a t55xx in the scan. I probably should have run a t55xx specific scan while I was at it just to be sure, something to be more thorough with next time I guess.
I doubt they would be T55xx chips if they are EM41xx, the EM tags are a dime a dozen, the factories probably are desperate to clear out the old stock. Should be able to just learn a NExT or xEM into it, but if it doesnt work the RFID reading circuit just may not be appropriate for small implanted tags
I would agree, I am still scratching my head as to why the Diagnostic card doesn’t work, even when the pad is active and can read a fob… 
@Compgeek Nice new DT avatar
Maybe the field is extremely weak all the time - tuned down barely enough to read a full-size tag at close range, but not enough to light up a diagnostic card, to save batteries.
Yeah, It seems to be the only logical explanation.
If anybody knows about the foibles and idiosyncracies of a large number of RFID locks, It would be you 
I kind of thought this would there be a way to strengthen the signal even if it included taking the doorknob apart
Maybe!
You could look at custom winding a coil to act as a new antenna, with a cylindrical coil shape it would couple better with implants at the cost of working worse with full size cards and key fobs. This may make it useable but may not do enough. If the reader is just low power as @anon3825968 suspects, there still might not be enough power with a custom antenna. If it looks for power draw before upping the output power as others suspected earlier, it still may not draw enough to kick it in to high gear.
It may be possible to modify components on the circuit board to increase the power output or overvolt it. High risk of damaging the circuits if you don’t know what you’re doing, and would probably result in horrendous battery life, hence why they didn’t do it from factory.
All electronic design is trade offs, the sad reality is that nobody sells a door lock designed for implants, so working reliably with our tiny cylindrical antennas is so far out of their design goals its the first thing to go.
If you do decide to modify it, good luck! Please do keep us updated and we’ll try to help as much as we can, but to my knowledge nobody has done this to one of those locks, so we don’t have a tutorial guide either!
I am going to look into it and will def have to find someone with more knowledge than myself in electronics before I would want to start opening things up.
Just going to throw this out there but the diagnostic card that I received (the PCB one with lf and hf LEDs) the lf side was doa and I have never been able to get it to light up, with either the xAC or my proxmark3, so I wouldn’t exactly count that not lighting up as confirmation that it has a week field. I also remember somewhere on this forum (I think it was somewhere in the Samsung lock section) that some locks when activated by touch turn off the RFID side, and some when activated by touch turn the RFID side to full power. I would suggest trying to use the lf field detector (confirm the one you think is lf by testing the hf one on your phone) and try all the positions turbo2ltr suggested with the lock in both the powered down and activated states. With a regular coil like on my proxmark3 it is like… Super sensitive to the angle, and position that you hold it to the edge of the coil to actually light up. I’m talking like 2 mm.
Sounds like you’re LF side is dead. All of mine are incredibly easy to light up… Mumbo has 2 of them so the odds of both being faulty seems low.
By incredibly easy I mean sending a 2.5v square wave at 125kHz through a random coil of wire got it to light up very well.
Odds are definitely very very low that both his cards are defective, but I’ve seen crazier things happen in my field of work. If he puts the diagnostic card on the lock then reads a tag through it, and let’s say it works and opens the lock, the diagnostic card should at the very least flicker right? It would be receiving more power than the tag at that point and the tag read/lock open would confirm that the coil activated at its fullest power.
Well according to the em4100 data sheet it’s min voltage is 0.3v… the green led likely requires more than that so I am leaning towards this
Well… That’s not promising.
So what would the voltage need to be ideally?
.8v usually upto about 1.2v would be good for the LED.
Well we are talking about voltage enduced in the tag. Not sure what the t5577 needs but the issue is more to do with antenna coupling.
For example in prototyping the HF LED Power Bracelet I can easily light the HF led on the diagnostic card at 5v (the lowest I have tried) I pass up to 30v to the same circuit to get a decently bright light out of the xLED unless I get the coil design just right.
Oh I was talking about minimums 
as in the forward voltage of the led 
I saw you had taken that possible answers. I took the other 
since the question had some ambiguity.
When I have just into these situations many times.
Most recently with Hornaday Bedside Gunsafe and the Vehicle safe.
The Bedside safe works awesome. 1 in away boom drawer slides out and Daddys got his Pew-Pew.
The vehicle safe. Looks of similar design. You would think it would function the same…no.
I contacted them. At first support gave the…they are the same reader. Your doing it wrong.
Then I looked at the info provided by FCC. The crap they have listed is flicking incredible. Literally they have a teardown of the entire unit. The testing. The schematics, pictures of the antennas.
They even list the engineers who register them and there direct contact info.
I asked support to ask Matt why they used garbage v1.00a designs and low end reader components then market a 3 year old device with a brand new one.
The bed safe is a complete rework.
I then introduced them to Dangerous things.
They are thrilled! I told him get some samples from them. Fix your garbage to work. Then see if there is a possible partnership.
As a firm believer in protecting my family the last thing I want to do is look for some fob my cats could have knower under the bed so I can get my gun. Same in my car.(Maserati…i live in the hood. Need to be prepared)
So long story short. Don’t forget me if you guys partnerup. They are a big deal 
Second search for the FCC id for any product before buying to see the guts of it so you know if garbage will work with enhanced thinking
I’ll try to post links later
I just want to reach for it…and it works.
