Good Eye, Yeah made it a while ago, there were designs online but none that were really flat and the way i wanted it so i refined already made designs. Funny, its on a Kennedy box which in my opinion is better than a snap-on.
2 Likes
I’ve been fine tuning my printer and was curious about the flow rates that other people are getting out of standard nozzles. I managed to get 18mm^3/ out of a 0.4mm CHT using black PLA but I’m unsure if this is normal or if I have some other problem in the filament path.
What numbers are you cyborgs getting? And what printers, extruders and hotends are you using?
Orca Slicer has a pretty good test pattern generator for those of you who haven’t messed with print speeds. Other alternatives are also available, but I recommend one that uses a meandering path with no acceleration.
This one goes from 10 to 30mm^3/s but I’d start lower on a regular old hotend.
Do you Got the stl you used for this, I can see what I get and meet you know.
2 Likes
It’s the max flowrate that’s built into Orca Slicer.
I can try to slice it for you if you want and specify the printer.
And I should probably update this post in the future and add gcode files for the Ender 3.
I prepared these test files but have only tested the ones that are customized for my modified printer. Do note that the default speed and acceleration settings of the Ender 3 might limit the maximum flow rate. Also, please keep an eye on your printer, these are meant to push the extrusion system to it’s limits.
flowGcodeFiles.zip (1009.2 KB)
Get ready for the shit show… this is an electrical question
Work related so I have to be semi vague and can’t show anything… but I’m not doing anything groundbreaking… just want to make a small hand held version of a fixed device
I want to made a little tool.
At work we have a thing that has electrical contacts on the bottom of a pcb so that you can power up a pcb inside it… before it gets fully sealed… I want to make a basic little 3d printed hand version
Battery in bottom, 2x pogo pins ? On top that will contact the exposed electrical contact pads for exactly what I want to do… 3v nothing major
I can work out how to embed them into a print that’s no biggy
I sort of understand that spring loaded pogo pins are what I want to contact the part, so it has some flex and give
The only thing I’m missing is I just can’t seem to work out how the hell I actually attach a wire to the stupid pogo pins I’m seeing lol
Just solder one to the bottom of the pogo. Should solder pretty well just clean your oils off it
2 Likes
You can always go for the through hole version and mount them to a PCB:
If you shop around, you should be able to find those for less than what Adafruit is asking for.
1 Like
Also. If you mock something small up I’ll prototype a board for you. Shouldn’t be too hard
3 Likes
Huh… that’s remarkably straight forward, I saw one with solder cups but couldn’t find a source to buy it… assumed it needed that to solder directly on it or there where some kind of crimps or clicks or something
Guess I was over thinking it
Shocking 
I know right?
That will make embedding it into a 3d print a bit more of a puzzle I suppose… but I should be able to figure it out… maybe just glue and shove it in from the bottom rather than try to embed it
Should need that, but I appreciate it. I have parts at work I can just measure the contact locations from, the unit mounts using a industry standard footprint and I have that geometry… so it should just be a matter of locating them relative to known screw points
Here’s a fairly redacted pic of just the contacts
Edit nvm… bad juju vibes sharing pics
The one that you posted is meant to be slid in to a PCB from the bottom and then soldered to a PCB.
You could solder your wire to it first and just press it through the print with a slightly smaller hole and be fine. Just solder first because you’ll deform your part pretty quick.
1 Like
Yep that crossed my mind, I considered soldering leads pausing print halfway and then fishing wires through the part into the bottom battery compartment… but I think it’ll be easier to just solder and then shove the pins into a tight fitting bore after the print is finished… no need to get crazy
The principal ingredient, cristobalite, gives high thermal expansion, even at comparatively low temperatures.
i guessing that a mold made with whip mix christobalite will expand enough to compensate for the silver shrinkage.
how do dentists do it? you would notice if a silver crown was even a little to big or small.
warning im known for stupid ideas 
1 Like
Unless I have it backwards in my head,
The mold expanding would result in the cast being under size to begin with, and then shrinking further as it cools
Pretty much you just need to have a custom mold made from steel with silvers shrinkage rate in mind…
Which is fine if you want to do a run… but way too much work for a one off shits and giggles project
You’re in good company then
2 Likes
a shrunken mold means slightly more volume than the original thereby leaving more room for the silver shrinkage
i had to write this 3 times its hard to explain lol
1 Like
If you change your mind let me know within the next day. Grouping shipping costs is huge and a PCB like that would be just a buck or two.
2 Likes
Because I don’t know exactly what it is nor how it will be used
I have 4 ideas for you
They may not be quite what you are after, but I’ll throw them at you anyway
Are you tied to the Pogo pins?
Could you use something else?
- Something like these are great
Follow the link and watch the video for them in use ( not far from the top )
https://magconn.co.kr/technology/
-
Similar, but you magnetic usb options
-
The pogo concept
The pins in the middle and there are magnets on the outside for quick correct alignment -
If you are doing the Pogo pins, something like this would give you more flexibility than 3D printing, it is easy to focus on a single path to solve all your solutions, but sometimes a sideway shift can help
Polymorph pellets
Heat them up and mold them to shape, you will be able to incorporate your pogos into your shape of choice.
I just had another idea, but I said 4 at the top, so…
1 Like
Nah I’ll be good, appreciate that it tho,
This won’t be a final tool…
This is proof of concept and forcing some peoples hands lol
Pretty much
The pcb already exists, and has 2 power contacts specifically designed for power to be applied via pogo pins before the unit is sealed up
So i normally print at 60mm/s
The file printed beautifully with no artifacting.
So i wanted to test it and i ran a new file.
100mm/s starting going up to 150mm. well see how hard i can push it.
2 Likes
