I’ve got 3 months off of work and strugling to keep myself occupied. In this time I’ve decided to modify my Motorbike. Ive planned to for a while and now I finally have the time. One modification will be key less ignition using my RFID chip I have a drz400e and have spent some time on here reading other posts etc. Just trying to get opinions on what everyone considers the best method. I also need to ensure that the entire system is waterproof as I do like to get in the mud . I have a NEXT implant. If someone could help me out by posting videos or photos of their bikes using RFID ignition it would be very helpful. Aswell as the hardware used (I have access to a 3d printer and I already have an xAC). I have read the the m/mo-lock has some issues with range etc through gloves so I feel as though xAC might be my preferred option. I really just need some help deciding .
I hope this all made sense , will be good to have one post detailing motorbike ignitions as everything else seems pretty scattered .
Following. I’m trying to do the same for my electric bike. I’ll update as well if I figure anything out.
Same setup. I have the NeXT and Xac. Version 1 &2
Only things I can suggest looking into are solid state relays / mosfets - they are often smaller than relays, and can be potted in resin / epoxy a little easier for waterproofing. Only real issue is if there are separate grounds / ensuring there’s proper power supply so that you don’t find your bike’s battery going flat.
There’s also a project by @Chimpofm which is mainly being worked on over on the discord called the Simple-Sexy which is an all in one solution (i.e. it doesn’t use the xAC) but you could probably take some of the concepts and apply them to your project.
That’s a very cool project and can give you quite some entertainment!
There are a few threads around the forum which can be nice for you. I can think of this one out of the top of my head, but sure @Pilgrimsmaster will be able to find you even more!
I saw this one a while ago, but it won’t be an exact step by step for what you want (uses proximity alarm), but there may be some tips and tricks you may pickup.
I hope it helps
Well, @Jake.lovell98 , The ones that have already been suggested are the same I would suggest, however there are a couple or few more to take some info from, but it really depends on how YOU want to approach YOURS.
I would suggest you read up on all of these and find the one that suits you best.
If you get stuck, come back here and I’m sure that amongst the community we should be able to help you out.
Also some car projects will help because they are all the same principle.
Also the “Easy guard” may be a cheap and simple option for you.
There are a few on the forum
This one covers easy guard and a few others
If your bike has a proximity immobiliser installed, this workaround is a fantastic one
That should be more than enough to get you started
So I have an update. If I bridge this orange and red wire together the ignition is active and I can start my bike .
This means I can technically use the xac connected to 2 relays so when I scan my hand on the xac relay one is activated and bridges these wires . Then when I scan my hand again the second relay is activated and wired to switch off the first relay? And I just use a diode on the output from the xac?
I really don’t understand electronics very well but this is starting to make sense. Can someone please confirm what I’m saying makes sense?
Thanks
The dash lights up and headlight comes on… then I am able to press the electronic engine start button that cranks the engine and bike starts .
My key only had an on and off position
Im having trouble understanding how to make the relay stay latched after the xac has stopped sending a signal
A non-technical solution would be to feed the relay output to both your ignition and back to itself. It would then keep itself powered after started and stay on. You could put your bike’s kill switch in between this connection to break that self feeding circuit and end the relay activation.
A more technical solution would involve using a flip flop circuit to keep it alive. YouTube has a bunch of primers on flip flops like this one: https://youtu.be/Hi7rK0hZnfc
I’m not sure what year you have but I’m assuming your wiring diagram looks something like this since Suzuki doesn’t seem to ever make any changes on these bikes. I have added in the necessary modifications. The kill switch needs to be rewired to the ignition circuit and the wires from the wiring harness need to be jumpered. shown in the dashed red box.
With the kill-switch in the run position, access controller will have power. Scanning Tag would latch the relays, emulating turning the key to the on position. You would then start the bike with the engine start button like normal. Pressing the kill-switch will cut power to the access controller and also unlatch the relays, emulating turning the key to the off position. This has one caveat, if you press the kill switch while riding you will have to re-authenticate to start the bike again. While this may be a more seamless install, I would recommend using a separate switch (normally closed momentary or simple toggle switch) which would be wired like this.
If you are planning to keep the access controller and the relays up front behind the headlight, wire everything as shown and wire the grounds into the headlight ground. If you plan to put them elsewhere then the battery may be a more advantageous location for both power and ground. The only thing that the bike needs is to get 12V on the orange wire to be able to start the bike.
Edit: I saw the diagram you made and see that you have a switch to cut power to the access controller to prevent drain. I forgot to put that in the schematic so add that in on the red wire if you want it.
Edit 2: forgot to mention you’ll need 2 relays or 1 DPST relay.
Thanks you heaps mcarter, I have made something that seems to work here is a video of it. Im hoping that if I connect up the xac to touch where I put the red wire in this video it should work? What do you think?
I plan to connect that black wire to the headlights earth and putting a switch there to break power instead of wiring up to killswitch .
You have too many wires connected to the orange. should be like this. And that’s smart thinking for using the switch on the ground side to stop power drain, I didn’t even think of that. It will also unlatch the relays!
So ground wire. Can it also just be a complete separate wire directly from the battery instead of the headlight ground?
Also those horizontal red lines on the 86’s what are they? Also the little blue line on the 30?
Do I put a diode on the white before it connects to the red aswell?
OH NO! after some simulation the ground side switch wont unlatch the relays! Switch needs to be moved to the 12v side. I’ll draw up another including it.
EDIT: Nevermind. One too many beers. It should work on the ground side.
. I have a NEXT implant. If someone could help me out by posting videos or photos of their bikes using RFID ignition it would be very helpful. Aswell as the hardware used (I have access to a 3d printer and I already have an xAC). I have read the the m/mo-lock has some issues with range etc through gloves so I feel as though xAC might be my preferred option. I really just need some help deciding .
are the same I would suggest, however there are a couple or few more to take some info from, but it really depends on how YOU want to approach YOURS.
